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You Choose with Billy Garton Jr.
#016 - Laird Hamilton - The King of the Ocean Opens Up on What it Takes to Live an Extraordinary Life
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Everyone is trying to hack, optimize and comfort their way to a better life. Laird Hamilton says the opposite is true: that comfort is the trap, that fear is intelligence, and that the closer you get to death, the more alive you become.Laird Hamilton is widely regarded as the greatest big-wave surfer of all time, the pioneer of tow-in surfing and hydrofoil boarding who redefined what's possible in the ocean. He is the co-founder of Laird Superfood, husband of volleyball legend Gabby Reece for 28 years, and father to three daughters.He explains:◼ Why the closer you are to death, the more alive you feel◼ How a lifetime in the ocean convinced him that God exists◼ The one thing he believes is…